Five of Queen Elizabeth II’s most iconic outfits – from new royal exhibit
Five of Queen Elizabeth II’s Most Iconic Outfits – From New Royal Exhibit
Queen Elizabeth II, a figure of global recognition, maintained a distinctive style throughout her reign. Though her wardrobe was often understated and traditional, her attire remained unmistakable. The exhibition at The King’s Gallery in Buckingham Palace, set to highlight items from the Queen’s 10 decades of life, underscores the centenary of her birth on 10 April, revealing how Britain evolved during her 70-year rule.
Among the 200 pieces featured—ranging from clothing and accessories to hats and shoes—the five most emblematic ensembles have been spotlighted. Her dressmaker Norman Hartnell crafted several of these, including the Harris tweed jacket and Balmoral Tartan skirt, first worn in the 1950s. This combination became a staple of her off-duty appearance, combining functionality with a subtle nod to national identity.
“The fabrics used were intended to ‘promote British fashion, excellence and production,’ says royal fashion commentator Marian Kwei. Weaved into the design’s feminine silhouette and muted tones are associations with ‘stability, dependence, soft power,’ she explains. ‘It’s ‘I’m in charge,’ without being too loud about it.'”
While the look wasn’t overtly trendsetting, Kwei argues its traditional aesthetic helped convey a sense of constancy. The piece is now seen as a quintessentially British style, with its influence extending to contemporary designers. Exhibition curator Caroline de Guitaut notes luxury brand Miu Miu’s 2024 Balmoral collection, which reimagined the Queen’s tartan kilts, as a testament to this enduring legacy.
The 1953 Coronation dress, also designed by Hartnell, showcases silk from Kent and features gold bugle beads, diamantés, and pearls in intricate embroidery. This garment symbolizes not just royal tradition but also the Queen’s vision of national unity, incorporating emblems of the UK’s four nations. After accepting Hartnell’s eighth design, the Queen added symbols from other Commonwealth countries, such as the Canadian maple leaf and India’s lotus flower.
“The gown was pretty much a nod to Britain and the Commonwealth,” says Kwei. Her sartorial choice, she adds, was “really an indication of the kind of Queen we had and how she reigned.”
In 1957, the Queen wore an elaborate sleeveless green gown at a state banquet for US President Dwight Eisenhower at the British Embassy in Washington DC. While its symbolism is debated, de Guitaut notes the dress’s “apple crisp green” hue could reference American culture. “From New York being known as ‘The Big Apple’ to the traditional place the ‘American Pie’ holds in American culture, apples have become synonymous with all things classically American,” she says. The dress, she adds, communicates “I’m Britain’s sovereign, this is us, but I’m also nodding to you.”
“It’s absolutely beautiful,” says de Guitaut, “but I can’t quite see an overt reference in it to be honest.”
Author and royal fashion commentator Elizabeth Holmes highlights how the Queen early on used her attire to “establish herself in a new way, a glamorous young woman on a global stage dominated by men.” Hartnell’s designs, with their fitted waists and full skirts, “accentuated her femininity rather than attempting to mask or hide it,” Holmes notes.